Discovering Livenza: Cycling, Hiking, and Slow Delights
Every big city needs a country retreat, a place of fresh air and pleasures authentic and slow pace.
This peace of Veneto close to Venice is home to sheep farms, river-threaded valleys, dramatic mountain views and mile upon mile of empty field. There is treasure here, if you know where to look.
The experience you can find in company with Slow Food Veneto Orientale, a perfect way to taste the local delights.
Slow Food is a global network of local communities that has been promoting taste education and defending biodiversity for over 30 years.
In this article we’ll reveal a idyllic ride by bicycle through Giralivenza, a hidden path for the intrepid traveler, unveils a side of the Livenza River that goes beyond the typical tourist trail. As you navigate this alternative route, prepare to be captivated by the enchanting landscapes that shift from quaint villages to lush countryside, offering a unique perspective on the Venetian heritage.
This alternative route promises not only breathtaking views but also a glimpse into the ever-changing Venetian patrimony that unfolds along the riverbanks.
As one travels along the routes, whether toward the river or toward the foothills, the landscape and the environment change as one approaches or moves away.
It is an amphibious place, suspended between land and water. The route can be travelled both by bike and by boat, with stops along the way that are sure to be pleasant and by no means trivial.
Livenza River
The Latins called it Liquentia (from the verb Liquērē being liquid, fluid) there could not have been a more appropriate name for this river: in fact, at any point along its course one encounters it, or navigates it, the impression it offers to the attentive hiker is precisely that of fluidity, of flowing decisively but not impetuously.
Livenza River is close to the famous and popular city of Venice and is 112 km long. The source of the river is in Friuli Venezia Giulia and flows into the Veneto region.
Livenza has its source at a low elevation: its sources gush out between 40 and 50m above sea level; its first stretch, the hilly one, is immersed in greenery: it flows among lush trees and shrub hedges and stable meadows; but pedaling along the narrow roads that reach its sources is fascinating not only in summer but also in spring, when the greenery begins to shyly make its way or when autumn makes the green change into the chromatic shades of browns, yellows and sometimes reds.
How to customize your journey
During our tour, we took an electric bike tour following the Giralivenza route, covering the stretch from Ca Corniani to the Port of Caorle. This route covered a total of 3.2 km (via Google Maps) and took about half an hour.
For boating enthusiasts, (weather and river conditions permitting) there is the option of renting fully electric boats with I Love Piave, departing from the town of Chiesanuova, at highly affordable prices, starting from 1 hour of sailing.
Cultural Cycling Tour: Exploring the Sights on Two Wheels
Ca’ Corniani
Ca’ Corniani is a settlement that is the result of very significant socio-historical events.
We can find long the banks of the Livenza river, not far from the Scales bridge.
These lands belonged to the Venetian Count Marco Corniani degli Algarotti in the first half of the 19th century. In 1851, the Assicurazioni Generali of Trieste bought the whole area, which amounted to almost 1800 hectares.
The land was reclaimed from 1879 for the improvement of the agricultural activity; it was one of the first integral reclamations to be completed.
The landscape changed radically: a built-up area with all services was created.
A master plan was drawn up by the engineer Daniele Francesconi from Treviso, which provided for the construction of roads, canals, the farm center warehouses, the winery, the granary, houses for sharecroppers and settlers, and a school.
The farm was designed to carry out not only the primary production, but also the processing of agricultural products and their marketing.
Ca’Corniani is where the sharecropper and the settler found everything: hard work, housing, recreation, education, religiousness – was the fruit of the positivist, but at the same time conservative, ideology of the late 19th century.
Now, after many years, things have changed, work has been drastically decreased, extensive cultivation of corn, soy, sugar beet requires more and more technological investment and less and less human resources.
Today, the main activity is the breeding of fish: sea bream, sea bass and eel are bred. Many hectares of vineyards are in production and the old wine cellars have been restored.
Caorle – the pearl of Adriatic
Caorle is considered the pearl of the Upper Adriatic, with its fishing port, fish market, and seaside tourist center. The Ponente beach and Levante beach are separated by the breakwater that protects the town from storm surges and forms a picturesque promenade with views from above of the sea and the old town.
With the Scogliera Viva Project, sculptures were created by Italian and foreign artists on the trachyte boulders that form the cliff itself, thus forming a kind of outdoor art gallery.
Fascinating is the Porto Romano, a characteristic ancient nucleus formed by narrow calli and campielli in which vibrant colors and balconies, sometimes with colorful blooms, stand out.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral dates from the 11th century and the beautiful bell tower with its cylindrical body and conical spire.
No shortage of surprises going toward the coast a beautiful view of the Sanctuary of the Madonna dell’Angelo. The building now standing is from the 18th century, but the church is probably the oldest in the town.
Sip, Cycle, and Savor: A Grape Escape Along the Livenza River
Strap on your walking shoes and dust off that bicycle because we’re still on a whimsical adventure along the Livenza River!
Now it’s time to turning a day trip into a grape escape, blending the joys of walking, cycling, and a touch of indulgence with a winery visit. (Why not?) So, lace up, pedal on, and let’s stroll through the vineyards with a dash of laughter and a sprinkle of grape magic!
Stanjbech Winery
Belfiore del Pramaggiore (VE)
A haven for wine enthusiasts seeking an authentic and sustainable experience. With meticulous care for their grapes, the winery has earned certification SNPQ for their commitment to environmentally friendly and biological viticulture practices.
At the heart of Stanjbech’s winemaking philosophy is the Tocai Friulano grape, a native variety that has been lovingly cultivated by the winery along the years. This grape carries with it the essence of the plan land, with chalk soil, good wind flow.
The story is essential here, highlighted by wine label name “150”: a name dedicated to Italy celebrated 150 years of unity in 2011, the year in which Stanjbech received the Lison DOCG recognition.
Apart Prosecco (that is obvious that we deserve an typical italian aperitivo) They produce a tasty Sauvignon Blanc, crispy and fragrant Chardonnay for white wine lovers; For red wines aficionados we cannot forgot the Merlot, Malbec and Refosco, this last another indigenous grape.
What sets Stanjbech apart is not only their dedication to tradition and family values thanks for the efforts of but also their vanguard approach to winemaking. Guided by a young and visionary enologist Rebecca Valent, now the third generation, the winery embraces innovation while staying rooted in the wisdom passed down through the years.
If you embrace the idea for wine tasting, click here to discover Allegrini Winery, in Valpolicella
Museo del Paesaggio
Torre di Mosto (VE)
Now, back on the pedals, recharged and fuel yourself again with the proper motivation that only a sip of good wine can provide. Enjoy the the journey, now fueled by grapes, and becomes a memory-making escapade.
This contemporary museum was inaugurated in 2007, it houses a collection of works that illustrate the changes that have occurred in the Veneto landscape since the beginning of the 20th century; the museum is also the headquarters of the Reclamation Landscape Observatory.
Where to eat
Trattoria Isetta
Torre di Mosto (VE)
The star here is the little trattoria starred in the 1910, where tables are made in typical chestnut, and the vibe is like nonna’s house cooking all day long.
Marco is an enthusiastic host, talking guests through the authentic menu like sausage di musetto, a petit-pourry of pejarada, fegatini, soppressa, obviously accompanied by wine king of this land, a glass of Prosecco Ancestrale.
Trattoria la Gassa
Sant’ Alò, Santo Stino di Livenza (VE)
Forget about your diet: Here is that kind of place that you indulge all your senses and let it go: here is the place to taste the delights of the Livenza river and its main star: the eel. Carefully prepared by the host and chef, it is cooked in a pan with tomato sauce and some local herbs. A first experience that I had to repeat.
Where to Stay
Agriturismo Borgo Rurale San Salvador
Boccafossa di Torre di Mosto (VE)
A dream of a historical house sitting in splendid isolation at the margins of Livenza the sight of which forms a backdrop to the many terraces, a country idyll of 5 minimally furnished self-catering apartments.
The cosy mood of the new furniture has found sophisticated equilibrium of shape and function, translated into understated yet decisive elegance. Up to five mini apartments available for rent for a week or a weekend.
Impossible forget the typical country breakfast, with genuine, local ingredients prepared on the spot with great care by the host Stefano.
Its that sort of place: just you and nature: the vale behind, the silence and the night stars.
Conclusion
For those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Livenza promises an immersive experience into the heart of the Venetian patrimony. Navigate the Livenza River’s alternative route, where every twist and turn reveals the cultural richness that defines this enchanting region. Embrace the unknown, and let the journey redefine your understanding of travel along the waterways of Italy.
In conclusion, this journey has left an indelible imprint on my soul. From the captivating landscapes to the enriching cultural encounters, every moment has contributed to the tapestry of memories woven during this adventure. As I reflect on the miles traveled and the experiences embraced, I am reminded that journeys not only unfold the beauty of Italy but also leave an enduring mark on the traveler.
The imprint of this expedition will linger in my heart, a testament to the transformative power of exploration and the everlasting connection between traveler and the path taken.
